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ERCO Ercoupe — Build Guide

ERCO Ercoupe

At a glance

  • Difficulty: Easy to build, intermediate to fly
  • Wingspan: 1500 mm (59")
  • Length: 1003.5 mm (39.5")
  • Flying weight: 3000 g (6.6 lb)

Overview

Thank you for purchasing a model by Lofted Aero! 3D printed aircraft are an exciting new segment of the hobby, and we've got no shortage of ideas for new designs. Your support helps us make those reality.

The ERCO Ercoupe is a general aviation aircraft from a time when flying was immensely popular. Advertised as "the world's safest plane", the Ercoupe had great visibility, resistance to spins, and gentle handling & control characteristics intended to make it easy for almost anyone to fly. Today – more than 70 years after its first flight – the Ercoupe is still unique and interesting enough to maintain a devoted following. And to become a 3D printed R/C model!

ERCO Ercoupe in flight

Skill meter

Build: This model has relatively few parts and is a straightforward configuration to print and assemble. It'd make for a good introduction to 3D printed aircraft.

Flight: This model has smooth handling characteristics but is not a trainer. It is suitable for pilots comfortable with low-wing sport aircraft and runway landings.

Specifications

Spec Value
Wingspan 1500mm (59")
Length 1003.5mm (39.5")
Wing Area 37.9dm2 (4.09ft2)
Print Weight 1500g
Flying Weight 3000g
Wing Loading 79g/dm2 (25.9oz/ft2)
Airfoil NACA4412 modified

The following hardware & electronics are required to complete the Ercoupe. In addition, you'll need some CA glue and activator, your R/C transmitter and receiver, and a LiPo battery charger.

Power system & avionics

Item Details
Motor Turnigy SK3 3542-800kV
ESC YEP 40A
Battery Gens Ace 4S 5500mAh
Propeller Master Airscrew 11x7
Aileron & Elevator Servos Hitec HS-85MG (x3)
Rudder & Nosewheel Servos Hitec HS-65MG (x3)
Aileron Servo Extensions 30cm / 12" (x2 – 1 pack)
Rudder Servo Extensions 60cm / 24" (x2 - 1 pack)

Hardware

Item Part
Hinge Pins 2.5 x 43 Round Pins (x14 - 2 packs)
Nose Landing Gear Rod K&S 3mm Rod
Shaft Collars 3.5mm Wheel Collar (x4 - 1 pack)
Pushrods K&S 1.2mm Piano Wire
EZ-Connectors (optional) Dubro EZ-Connectors
Motor & Gear Pylon Mount Screws M4 x 14 Self-Tapping Screw (x8 - 1 pack)
Nylon Wing Mount Bolts M6 x 60 Nylon Screw (x2 - 1 pack)
Nylon Wing Mount Nuts M6 Nylon Nut (x2 - 1 pack)
Landing Gear Shock Absorbers 68mm x 15mm Shock Absorber
Axle Screws M3 x 40 (x2)
Strut Screws M3 x 22 (x2)
Axle Nuts M3 Locking (x4)
Shock Absorber Lower Mount Screws M2.5 x 10 (x2)
Shock Absorber Upper Mount Screws M2 x 20 (x2)
Shock Absorber Upper Mount Nuts M2 Locking (x2)
Shock Absorber Lower Mount Nuts M2.5 Locking (x2)

A hardware pack containing all screws, nuts, and washers is available from Lofted Aero HERE.

Printing thin-wall models

Desktop 3D printers are perfectly capable of producing great-flying R/C models durable enough to withstand hangar rash and general use. However, aircraft designs contain a unique mix of thin surfaces and intricate solid supports that require some practice to print perfectly. Keep the following tips in mind when printing your model.

Slicing with OrcaSlicer

The model download includes .3MF project files for OrcaSlicer – a modern, free, and open source slicer with wide support for popular printers and the ability to utilize multiple plates and varying settings within a single project. These project files include print settings tailored to the model as well as filament settings with adjusted temperature and retractions. The provided settings have been tested to suit a wide range of printers – in most cases, no changes should be necessary aside from choosing your printer.

OrcaSlicer filament preset OrcaSlicer process preset

The video below provides a guide for opening the .3MF project files in OrcaSlicer and ensuring the included process and filament settings are applied properly.

Tutorial video

Modifiers and per-object settings

OrcaSlicer allows per-object modifications to slicing settings, and this method is frequently used in the provided .3MF files. When making settings changes, be mindful of these per-object settings as well as any height range or other modifiers that have been applied to each part. You can use the "View all object's settings" button to quickly view the modifications for all part files in each project.

OrcaSlicer object/part settings, with the "View all object's settings" button highlighted

(example screenshot shown – may not represent this model)

Other printing options

If you choose to try slicing the STL files with a different slicer, there are a few things to keep in mind:

  • Most parts should be sliced with only 1 perimeter, no solid top & bottom layers, and no infill
  • "Solid" parts (landing gear components, hatch latch, wing nut holders) should be sliced with 3 perimeters, 3 solid top & bottom layers, and ~40% infill
  • Nozzle temperature should be 210-220 degrees with no cooling fan
  • Bed temperature should be 50-60 degrees
  • Retraction should be just enough to prevent stringing between features
  • Extra length on restart should be just enough to prevent sparse extrusion at layer start
  • Extrusion ratio should be adjusted until print weight equals the suggested part weight

Quality filament

Using good quality filament can be the key to successful thin-wall prints. PLA is the filament of choice for these prints due to its low warp and high interlayer bond strength. While most PLA may seem identical, there's a lot of variation in diameter tolerance, moisture content, pigment consistency, and melting properties. With poor quality filament, you may notice surface imperfections, underextrusion on thin walls, and stringing between interior features. We've had great results with eSun PLA+ (sometimes sold as PLA Pro) and strongly recommend it for printing Lofted Aero models.

eSun PLA+ filament

Reference print weights for each part.

Joining parts

The Ercoupe's printed sections are joined together with CA glue (Bob Smith brand works well) and activator. There are a few different types of joints throughout the model.

Base-to-Top Joint

This is the most common type of joint, where the base of one part is glued to the top of another part. There are usually some tabs present to help with alignment. Place a bead of CA along the perimeter and internal edges of the part with the base side, as these edges have a bit more surface area. Then place that part on top of the opposite part, again using gravity to hold the parts together. Verify that the tabs achieved proper alignment and spray CA activator to secure.

Base-to-top joint

Base-to-Base Joint

Some parts are joined with their base surfaces facing each other. There are no alignment tabs in this scenario, but the increased surface area helps somewhat. Place a bead of CA along the perimeter and internal edges of one of the parts. Then place that part on top of the opposite part, again using gravity to hold the parts together. Before glue sets, gently nudge the parts to align them. Once satisfied, spray CA activator to secure.

Base-to-base joint

Solid Face Joint

The joints on parts including control horns often contain solid faces to increase strength. Spread a thin layer of CA on one face and then carefully align with the second. Once satisfied with alignment, spray CA activator to secure. Some control surface parts join solid faces on one side with hollow perimeters on the opposite side. For these, place a bead of glue around the edges of the hollow perimeter and any internal structure, then align it on top of the solid face of the opposite part. When satisfied with alignment, spray CA activator to secure.

Solid face joint

Wing assembly

  1. Assemble the ailerons. Start by joining section 1 to section 2 and section 3 to section 4 separately. Then, glue both subassemblies together at the control horn in the middle.

    Aileron sections 1 and 2 joined Aileron sections 3 and 4 joined Aileron subassemblies joined at the control horn

  2. Assemble sections 1A and 2A, then sections 1B and 2B.

    Wing sections 1A and 2A Wing sections 1B and 2B Assembled A and B wing subassemblies

  3. Spread glue liberally along the joining faces between the assembled "A" and "B" subassemblies. Join them together, standing the root ends on a flat surface to help maintain alignment. Use CA activator to secure.

    Gluing the A and B subassemblies together Root ends stood on a flat surface for alignment

  4. Complete the wing panels by gluing sections 3, 4, 5, and 6 in sequential order.

    Wing section 3 added Wing section 4 added Wing section 5 added Wing section 6 added

  5. Place a drop of glue on each hinge pin, then push them into their mount holes in the wings. Be sure that their rotation axes are aligned with the aileron's hingeline. Then, use activator to secure.

    Hinge pins pushed into the wing mount holes Hinge pins aligned with the aileron hingeline

  6. Place a drop of glue on the exposed ends of all three hinge pins and carefully install the aileron, making sure the hinge pins engage their mount holes. When the aileron is fully seated, spray CA activator while working the hinge back and forth to make sure the hinge pins stay free.

    Installing the aileron onto the hinge pins Aileron fully seated on the hinge pins

  7. Install 300mm (12") servo extensions on the aileron servos and thread the leads through the tubes in the wing.

    Servo extension on the aileron servo Aileron servo leads threaded through the wing tubes

  8. Center the aileron servos with a servo tester or receiver, then install the control arms.

  9. Using servo tape, E6000 glue, or low-temp hot glue, secure the aileron servos in their pockets. If not using EZ-Connectors, it may help to wait to glue until after installing the pushrods.

  10. Connect the aileron servos to the control horns using pushrod wire with z-bends. Alternatively, use EZ-Connectors for quick adjustable connection.

    Aileron servo connected to the control horn

  11. Spread glue liberally on one wing root, then join the two completed wings together.

    Glue spread on the wing root The two wings joined together

Fuselage assembly

  1. Install a pen spring on the end of the hatch latch, then slide it into fuselage section 2. Then join sections 2 and 3 with CA, making sure the hatch latch slides freely.

    Pen spring on the hatch latch Hatch latch slid into fuselage section 2 Fuselage sections 2 and 3 joined

  2. Join section 4 to section 3, applying the CA to section 4 to avoid getting glue on parts of the wing saddle that aren't involved in the joint.

    Fuselage section 4 joined to section 3 Wing saddle kept clear of glue

  3. Join section 5 to section 4. Then join section 5 to section 6, applying the CA to section 5 to avoid getting glue on parts of the wing saddle that aren't involved in the joint.

    Fuselage section 5 joined to section 4 Fuselage section 6 joined to section 5

  4. Complete the fuselage by joining sections 7 and 8 to the assembly. Do not attach sections 1 or 9 at this time – they'll be joined after the motor and elevator pushrod are installed, respectively.

    Fuselage section 7 joined Fuselage section 8 joined

  5. Assemble the canopy by joining canopy sections 1, 2, and 3.

    Canopy sections 1 and 2 joined Completed canopy

  6. Center the elevator servo with a servo tester or receiver, then thread lead through its guide tube. Using E6000 glue or low-temp hot glue, secure the elevator servo in its pocket in the fuselage.

    Elevator servo secured in the fuselage

  7. Make a z-bend on one end of a long pushrod and install it in the elevator servo arm. Feed the pushrod through the guide tube in the fuselage, then secure the servo arm on the servo.

    Z-bend on the elevator pushrod Pushrod fed through the fuselage guide tube

Tail assembly

  1. Join horizontal tail sections 1 and 2 on each side.

    Horizontal tail sections 1 and 2, one side Horizontal tail sections joined

  2. Join the rudder sections and vertical tail sections.

    Rudder and vertical tail sections joined

  3. Place a drop of glue on each hinge pin, then push them into their mount holes in the vertical tails. Be sure that their rotation axes are aligned with the rudder's hingeline. Then, use activator to secure.

    Hinge pins in the vertical tail mount holes Hinge pins aligned with the rudder hingeline

  4. Place a drop of glue on the exposed ends of all hinge pins and carefully install the rudders, making sure the hinge pins engage their mount holes. When the rudders are fully seated, spray CA activator while working the hinge back and forth to make sure the hinge pins stay free.

    Rudder installed on the hinge pins

  5. Install EZ-Connectors on the rudder control horns as shown. Remove the tabs from the rudder servos.

    EZ-Connectors on the rudder control horns Tabs removed from the rudder servos

  6. Install 600mm (24") servo extensions on the rudder servos and thread the leads through the tubes in the horizontal tails. Soldering is recommended to avoid the bulk of servo connectors.

    Servo extension on the rudder servo Rudder servo leads threaded through the horizontal tail tubes

  7. Center the rudder servos. then install the control arms. Glue the rudder servos in their pockets. Make rudder pushrods with z-bends on one end and insert into the rudder servo arms.

    Rudder servos and pushrods installed

  8. Spread glue liberally on the end of the horizontal tail halves. Set the vertical tail & rudder assemblies in place while sliding the rudder pushrods through the EZ-Connectors on the rudders. When satisfied with alignment, use CA activator to secure. Center the rudders and tighten the EZ-Connectors.

    Vertical tail and rudder assemblies set in place

  9. Thread the rudder servo leads through the tubes in the fuselage. Glue the completed tail halves onto Fuselage 8, making sure to keep them level.

    Completed tail halves glued onto Fuselage 8

  10. Assemble the elevator by first joining sections 1 and 2 on each side, then joining both halves in the center at the control horn.

    Elevator sections 1 and 2 joined Elevator halves joined at the control horn

  11. Place a drop of glue on four hinge pins, then push them into their mount holes in the horizontal tails. Be sure that their rotation axes are aligned with the elevator's hingeline. Then, use activator to secure.

    Hinge pins pushed into the horizontal tail mount holes

  12. Dry-fit the elevator onto the hinge pins and center it, then mark the location of the elevator control horn on the pushrod. Make a z-bend at this location.

    Elevator dry-fit onto the hinge pins Z-bend marked on the elevator pushrod

  13. Fit the z-bend into the elevator control horn. Then place a drop of glue on the exposed ends of all hinge pins and carefully install the elevator, making sure the hinge pins engage their mount holes. When the elevator is fully seated, spray CA activator while working the hinge back and forth to make sure the hinge pins stay free. Note: it may help to move the elevator servo to its full "up" position during this step.

    Elevator installed on the hinge pins

Nose gear assembly

  1. Glue the nose wheel hub halves together inside the nose tire.

    Nose wheel hub halves Hub halves glued inside the nose tire

  2. Use a bench vice and a hammer to bend the nose gear rod to conform to the shape of the printed template. Cut the excess with a hacksaw or rotary tool.

    Printed nose strut bending template Bending the nose gear rod in a vice Nose gear rod matched to the template Excess rod trimmed off

  3. Press a shaft collar into the nose steering arm, making sure to align the set screw holes.

    Shaft collar and nose steering arm Shaft collar pressed into the steering arm

  4. Slide the nose shaft through the steering arm and printed nose gear mount insert, then secure by tightening the shaft collar inside the steering arm and another shaft collar on the end. Using thread locker is recommended. The shaft should be free to rotate but with as little slop as possible. Ensure the steering arm is parallel with the axle. Tip: grind flat spots in the shaft for tighter holds when using set screws.

    Nose shaft through the steering arm and mount insert Shaft secured with shaft collars

  5. Spread CA on the sides of the nose gear mount insert, then press it into place in the fuselage. Spray activator to secure.

    Nose gear mount insert pressed into the fuselage

  6. Thread the nose steering servo lead through the tube in the fuselage, using an extension if necessary. Fix the servo in place with E6000 glue or low-temp hot glue.

    Nose steering servo fixed in place

  7. Make a nose steering pushrod with a z-bend on each end. Center the nose steering servo with a servo tester or receiver, then install the pushrod and control arm.

    Nose steering pushrod and control arm installed

  8. Using two shaft collars, install the nose wheel as shown.

    Nose wheel with shaft collars Nose wheel installed

  9. Glue the two halves of the nose gear hatch together and install it on the fuselage using four servo screws.

    Nose gear hatch halves glued together Nose gear hatch installed on the fuselage

Main gear assembly

  1. Glue the main wheel hub halves together inside the tires.

    Main wheel hub halves Hub halves glued inside the main tire

  2. Adjust the shock absorber springs to their stiffest position. Install a short ball link in each end.

    Shock absorber spring adjusted to stiffest position Short ball links installed on the shock absorber ends

  3. Align the top end of the shock absorber (the ball link you just installed) with its mount hole in the gear pylon. Secure with an M2 x 20 bolt and an M2 nut.

    Shock absorber top end aligned with the pylon mount hole Shock absorber secured with an M2 bolt and nut

  4. Install the strut with an M3 x 22mm bolt and an M3 lock nut. The strut should be slop free but able to pivot with little resistance.

    Strut positioned in the pylon Strut secured with an M3 bolt and lock nut

  5. Attach the lower end of the shock absorber to the strut with an M2.5 x 10 bolt and an M2.5 lock nut.

    Lower end of the shock absorber at the strut Shock absorber attached with an M2.5 bolt and lock nut

  6. Attach the wheel to the strut with an M3 x 40 bolt, three M3 washers, and an M3 lock nut. It should be able to rotate freely.

    Main wheel positioned on the strut Wheel secured with an M3 bolt, washers, and lock nut

  7. Attach the pylons to the wing with M4 x 14 self-tapping screws. Liberally apply CA to the joint as well.

    Gear pylon positioned on the wing Pylon attached with self-tapping screws

Power system installation

  1. Install the cross mount on the motor – use thread locker. Then connect the motor and ESC with bullet connectors or direct solder joints. Verify proper direction.

    Cross mount installed on the motor Motor connected to the ESC

  2. Lower the ESC and wiring into the fuselage from the front. Then, use four self-tapping screws to attach the cross mount to the fuselage. You can reinforce with CA for additional strength.

    ESC and wiring lowered into the fuselage Cross mount screwed to the fuselage

  3. Install the prop adapter. Then join fuselage section 1 to section 2, ensuring that the center hole is aligned with the motor shaft.

    Prop adapter installed and fuselage section 1 joined

  4. Use double-sided tape or Velcro to fix the ESC to the inside of the fuselage.

    ESC fixed inside the fuselage

NOTE: Should you wish to install a front-mounted motor, an alternate Fuselage 1 is included. However, the default layout with the motor mounted from the rear is recommended for overall robustness

Final assembly

  1. Fit the wing into place, threading the aileron servo leads through the tubes in the wing saddle.

    Wing fitted into place

  2. Spread CA on the body of each wing nut holder, then drop them into their pockets in the fuselage.

    CA applied to the wing nut holders Wing nut holders dropped into their pockets

  3. Drop nylon nuts into the nut holders with a few drops of CA on each. Install the wing bolts and tighten to drive the nut holders into their pockets. Secure the nut holders with CA activator.

    Nylon nuts dropped into the nut holders Wing bolts installed and tightened

Electronics setup & finishing

Connect the ESC and all servos to the receiver. If your ESC does not have a switching regulator, it is recommended to use a separate BEC to power the servos and receiver. If possible, each aileron should have its own channel to enable independent end points and differential. The rudder servos can share a channel, but the nose steering servo should have its own channel if possible.

ESC and servos connected to the receiver

Adjust control deflections using the suggested throws below. The Ercoupe is a tame aircraft, but using a moderate amount of expo (~25%) can keep things smooth.

Suggested control throws

Control Travel
Ailerons 22 mm up / 12 mm down
Elevator 12 mm up / 12 mm down
Rudders 12 mm left / 12 mm right

With the propeller and canopy fitted, position the battery such that the aircraft balances on the CG marks on the underside of the wing. Secure with adhesive Velcro and/or Velcro straps.

Balancing the model on the CG marks

Apply graphics if desired. You're ready to fly!

Finished ERCO Ercoupe

NOTE: Since the Ercoupe was designed to be easy to fly, most had no rudder pedals. Instead, the rudders were linked mechanically to the yoke along with the ailerons. For an authentic experience, you can replicate this with your model using an aileron-to-rudder mix. Just be careful with crosswind landings!

Contact us

Have a question, issue, or just a cool idea for the next aircraft we should model? Drop us an email at: info@loftedaero.com